Our first day in Antarctica we cruised from the Merrcuire islands and down to a place called Port Lockeroy, a small bay with hundreds of Penguins. The weather was pretty grey, but we decided to get on land and stretch the legs after 5 days on the boat. As with pretty much anything in Antarctica the area was heavily glaciated so we brought all the gear, meaning other than normal ski touring equipment; ropes harnesses, ice axes and crampons.

Chris and Andrea getting the crampons on.
After about an hour of skinning up a pretty mellow glacier we saw a nice little couloir with dark rock walls. We were all feeling good, and this looked like an easy little outing to get warmed up for bigger objects later. We put crampons on and started boot-packing up the couloir . As we got higher it also got progressively steeper, our estimates before we started climbing, was that it might be around 45˚, but half way up it was at least 50˚, and it still looked like it was getting steeper higher up. 30 meters from the top it must have been 60˚ and the last meters looked like they were close to vertical.

Andrea and me getting into some steep terrain near the top of the couloir.
We decided to put a rope on, and I started leading up what was more frozen rime than snow, because we only had one ice axe each I borrowed someone’s tool, so I had two for the climb, the picks didn’t give any hold in the rime, so I had to bury the shafts in as deep as possible and trench my way up.

Traversing the summit ridge, Mt. Francais 2760m in the background.
. From the summit ridge, we spotted a nice looking line down, a little to the side from were we came up. We decided that this would be a better option on the way down, than the 80 frozen rime variation. The snow was pretty decent wind packed powder still probably 50 steep, but very edge-able. A little walk had turned into a decent day, and a great warm up for the rest of the trip. We also had our first, but not last, lesson in ; “everything in Antarctica is steeper than it looks”.

Andrea on the Summit.







